Service Manual For Dresser Td8
First time to post but have been doing a lot of reading. I've used boards for all kinds of toys in the past but first time to need help with my dozer. I have a TD-8E (1978 Long transmission based on serial) that has been great to me. Bought it about half a year ago and have been using the heck out of it brushing and doing some dirt work on 14 acres I bought a year ago.
I enjoy doing things myself and bought a dozer instead of paying to have someone come in and do it for me. I've never had a single issue with the dozer until very recently. Due to ignorance and not having a service manual (which I'm about to order) I have never kept an eye on my trans fluid and rear main fluid. About a week ago, the dozer started to lag when I put it in gear. Then it got to where it would just creep forward and backwards but without any power. After reading, I learned to check my trans fluid and realized it was low. Topped it off with Hydra-Trans Ultra and it came back to life - for a while.
Service Manual For Dresser Td8 Dresser td8: business & industrial ebay, find great deals on ebay for dresser td8 in crawler dozers and the tractor's chassis service manual does not include the. Sep 27, 2010 - have a Dresser TD8. Was told it was an 88, but noticed the repair manual that came with it is for an 81. The old guy that sold it to us went through. Dresser Td8 Service Manual For Sale looking for Dresser Td8 Service Manual For Sale do you really need this pdf Dresser Td8 Service Manual For.
It started doing it again so this time, I replaced trans filter, cleaned trans screen and replaced all the fluid. I also replaced the forward and reverse hydraulic control hoses as they looked like they were leaking a bit. I also checked rear main and had milky fluid so I replaced it as well with HyTrans Ultra. (Went ahead and changed oil and air filter while I was nasty even though that wasn't my problem). So, after all that, and making sure that levels were topped off with the machine running, I've still got engagement issues. I don't know where to go from here and fearing that I have a bigger problem than low fluids.
When I put it in gear, it will move forward but SLOWLY and with no power. After going back and forth for a while, it will eventually engage with full power and perform as usual, but if I idle for a second, it starts all over again. Do I have another line leaking? Could install of the trans filter do this?
I didn't have a replacement o-ring for around the bottom of the filter. Is that an issue? On the old filter, I noticed a couple of small pieces of plastic that I figured was some lines breaking down.
Basically asking if I need to check something else that I haven't looked at, if I need to go through all my lines good or if it looks like I have a major issue with the trans. Any help would be appreciated. I'm going to order a manual but was hoping to get some real world advice as well. Thanks in advance for the help. Hello Trick, Tell us what the transmission clutch pressure gauge on the dash is doing.
Is it up in the green or if numbered gauge should be 160 psi to maybe 200 psi. It should be up at idle speed as well as high idle speed. Is it steady or bouncing? On a TD8E it may not show in neutral, I can't remember. Is the pressure the same in all gears? It should be. If the pressure is down the clutch packs will slip.
If the pressures are the same in all gears but low you may have an oil supply problem to the transmission pump such as blockage or sucking air at a plumbing connection, suction side. Possibly a bad pump also but more testing is needed before condemning it. Items common to all gears- supply to the pump, pump and pressure regulator valve. As Red Wannabe said, the drive line should not rotate when in gear and tracks held with the brakes. Keep us posted and good luck Dennis.
Thanks everyone for the responses. Finally got a chance to check some of the suggestions and here are the findings. The clutch pressure when at full rpm's is showing slightly higher than at full throttle in gear.
When in gear, the clutch pressure matches in all 6 gears. The brakes have never worked as long as I've owned it and they have no effect at all. The dozer will roll forward in f1 and r1 but without power. Im parked in a slight bowl so it stops moving as soon as it starts going up the slight incline.
At the same time the driveline never stops it only slows with rpm's. I did pull the bottom cover and there is what looks like hydra fluid in there. That might not mean much though since I just changed all fluids and cleaned suction screen. That brings me to a question. If I didn't get a seal on suction cover or trans filter could that be causing this? I didn't have a replacement oring for the trans filter and also worried I put the spring back in wrong. Im just looking to rule things out before I start looking at transmission repair.
Speaking of, what happens if it is trans? Can they be repaired or do I have to buy a parts machine? Is it even worth the trouble? Im not a dozer hobbist and was hoping this would just be a good farm dozer for light work.
I don't need anymore money pit machines. Thanks again. When you say the brakes don't work, are you saying that they don't work when you pull the steering levers all the way back to turn, or they won't hold when you step on the pedal? If they work for turning/steering, then your pedal is out of adjustment. If you are sucking air past poor O-rings, that can't be good. There is a guy up here in Minnesota that has a 125E on craigslist that rebuilt his trans, it is the same as you have in your TD-8.
I talked to him about a winch. He seemed like a nice guy that would answer any questions you might have on a trans rebuild.
His name is Chad 507-456-1257. It might help you get an idea about cost. Good luck, keep us informed.
Good morning Trick, We need to know what the pressure readings are in gear and neutral, at high idle and idle. If they are low the trans will slip. Being they are all the same could be good news. Is the gauge steady or bouncing? A little higher in neutral than in gear is normal. The paper filter is on the pressure side and a leak would not effect operation. The suction filter, a screen, is in the bottom of the trans case, I think held in by two capscrews if I remember right.
Is this the screen you had out? Was it clean? The transmission is a rebuildable unit by someone with mechanical ability the manuals and the needed tools. I would not condemn the transmission at this point.
A word of caution if you decide you need to replace it. The loader version, 125E, may be a different gear ratio than TD8E. I know that a TD15B or C has a different ratio than it's loader version the 175B or C. Good Luck Dennis. Sorry for some confusion Red. Yes, the steering brakes are tight and work well but the pedal is out of adjustment.I can engage both brakes via the turning levers and still the driveline turns. Here are some pics of my pressure readings since I don't have a numbered gauge.
This is full RPM in neutral. This is full RPM in any of the six gears I didn't notice any bounce at all it seemed pretty steady. That's the correct screen and no it wasn't clean but it wasn't in too bad of condition. What's the most likely cause of trans failure? Low fluid levels?
Would the trans go out intermittently like it has? Work well when I added to fluids and then start going back out? I don't have the time or expertise to rebuild the trans myself. What should I expect to pay to have someone else rebuild assuming I can find a competent person to handle it?
Rider waite tarot card meanings. Last question for now. Does the engine service manual include the transmission? Hi Trick, Your pressures look good. Are they about the same at idle speeds?
A little lower would probably be normall. One more pressure question. When shifting from gear to gear does the gauge drop for a second or two and then return to normal after the shift? This would be normal and tell us that the clutch packs were actually shifting. The quick drop would be the time to fill the clutch pack piston. Another cause of the slippage, although a long shot, would be both steering clutches out of adjustment or worn out. This could mean the trans is doing it's job but the power is being lost in the rear end.
Does the tractor have anything on the back like a winch, ripper or counterweight? Low fluid levels if run for extend time could cause clutch pack damage. It is unlikely that both f and r would fail at the same time although they are on the same shaft. It is normal for the drive line to spin with both steer levers pulled back. The engine service manual will not have transmission info. You will need TD8E parts, chassis service and operators manual. Binderbooks has good reprints or may find them on E Bay.
Hi Trick, Your pressures look good. Are they about the same at idle speeds? A little lower would probably be normall. One more pressure question.
When shifting from gear to gear does the gauge drop for a second or two and then return to normal after the shift? This would be normal and tell us that the clutch packs were actually shifting.
The quick drop would be the time to fill the clutch pack piston. Another cause of the slippage, although a long shot, would be both steering clutches out of adjustment or worn out. This could mean the trans is doing it's job but the power is being lost in the rear end. Does the tractor have anything on the back like a winch, ripper or counterweight? Low fluid levels if run for extend time could cause clutch pack damage. It is unlikely that both f and r would fail at the same time although they are on the same shaft.
It is normal for the drive line to spin with both steer levers pulled back. The engine service manual will not have transmission info. You will need TD8E parts, chassis service and operators manual. Binderbooks has good reprints or may find them on E Bay. Dennis I actually don't know if the pressure drops but I'll check next time out. Unfortunately, the dozer is at my grandmother's house.
I was doing a good deed and had it hauled out there to tear down a barn that was a fire hazard. Barely got the job done when it started giving out. I do have a guy that is supposed to come out this week or maybe next and spend about 4 hours going through it and diagnosing it. In the meantime, I'm headed to Alaska for some work. I'll go ahead and get the manuals suggested so I'll be able to educate myself when I get back.
Hopefully I'll at least figure out how to adjust the brake pedal since that seems to be a key to diagnosis. Has anyone ever used this company? I called today to find out if that's an option. I go to Baton Rouge occasionally and could possibly pick the trans up if I do have to go that route. Going to try everything and anything else out first though. I sure do like this little machine and would like to keep it running for many years to come. I actually just finished a small shed on my land so I could treat it to covered parking if I ever get her back home.
Got some brush piles I need to burn and it's killing me not being able to get it done. Can't tell you how much I appreciate the help so far.
I'll keep everyone posted.
Complete service repair workshop manual for the: Komatsu Dresser TD-7H TD7H Bulldozer Dozer The same shop manual heavy machinery mechanics use which contains all the information needed to perform service and repairs on the dozers. Complete step by step information testing, adjusting, dis-assembly, assembly, electrical, servicing and preventative maintenance.
Service Manual For Dresser Td8h
The TD-7H mounts the 4D102E-1 engine. For details of the engine, refer to manual below (sold separately):. PDF Manual. Instant Download.